Surfactant Mixtures for Improving the Deposition of Active Substances and for Reducing the Skin Irritant Action

ABSTRACT

A cosmetic or pharmaceutical rinse-off formulation contains 0.2% by weight to 20% by weight of a phase A; 0.1% by weight to 50% by weight of an active substance; a detergent; and the remainder being water. The phase A is a mixture of 20% by weight to 90% by weight of a surfactant mixture of isethionates, acyl lactylates and one of alkyl glutamates and alkyl glucosides and 10% by weight to 80% by weight of water, alcohol, polyol or mixtures thereof. The phase A forms multilamellar vesicles. The cosmetic or pharmaceutical rinse-off formulation is a clear product with the multilamellar vesicles of phase A having an average diameter of less than 100 nm.

CROSS-REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATIONS

This application is a divisional of application Ser. No. 10/555,414 having a filing dated of Oct. 12, 2006, said application being a national stage filing of international application No. PCT/EP2004/04863 having an international filing date of 06 May 2004 and designating the United States, said international application claiming a priority date of 07 May 2003 based on prior filed international application PCT/EP2003/04788, the entire contents of the aforesaid application Ser. No. 10/555,414 and the aforesaid international applications being incorporated herein by reference.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

The invention relates to the use of mixtures of surfactants for reducing the skin irritant action of cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical formulations which are applied to the skin. Additionally, the surfactant mixtures should serve for the targeted encapsulation and improvement in the application of active substances to the skin. Here, active substances are, in particular, organic photoprotective filters, antidandruff active substances, keratolytics and further pharmaceutical active substances, antioxidants, plant extracts, oils, waxes and mixtures thereof.

Many cosmetic and pharmaceutical compositions comprise active substances which are applied to the skin in a rinse-off formulation. Whereas the rinse-off formulation is rinsed off again from the skin following use, the active substances should be deposited on the skin. The active substances are usually mixed directly into the compositions, for example shampoos, shower gels, face cleansers or solid or liquid soaps. This procedure has the disadvantage that in most cases upon use only small amounts of the active substances remain on the skin, which can develop their effect there. The majority of the active substances is usually washed off again with the rinse-off formulation. This leads to large amounts of costly active substances having to be incorporated into the formulations in order to achieve a desired effect. However, when suitably high amounts of active substances are used in the rinse-off formulations, an undesired skin irritation is often observed when the formulations are used.

There is therefore demand for rinse-off formulations which, on the one hand, allow the amount of active substances used to be kept low and thus to reduce costs, but which, on the other hand, nevertheless allow a very good effectiveness of the active substances and bring about reduced skin irritation during use.

If the effectiveness of the active substances could be increased during use, it would be possible to make do with smaller amounts, meaning that the cosmetic or pharmaceutical formulations could be produced more cost-effectively.

An object of the present invention is to provide cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical rinse-off formulations which avoid the disadvantages of the known formulations and, in particular, permit improved application of active substances to the skin. Additionally, they should preferably reduce the skin irritant action of the formulations.

It should be possible to achieve a desired effect to an adequate degree using small amounts of active substances in the formulations.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The objects are achieved according to the invention by the use of mixtures of surfactants which form multilamellar liquid-crystalline structures, where the surfactants are chosen from at least two of the following groups formed from isethionates, taurates, sarcosinates, acyl lactylates, acyl glutamates, fatty acid-protein condensates, PEG stearates, PEG distearates with an HLB value of less than 10, alkyl polyglycosides and betaines for reducing the skin irritant effect of cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical formulations which are applied to the skin, and for improving damaged hair structures.

The objects are additionally achieved according to the invention by using mixtures of surfactants which form multilamellar liquid-crystalline structures, where the surfactants are chosen from at least two of the following groups formed from isethionates, taurates, sarcosinates, acyl lactylates, acyl glutamates, fatty acid-protein condensates, PEG stearates, PEG distearates with an HLB value of less than 10, alkyl polyglycosides and betaines in cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical formulations which comprise active substances which are chosen from organic photoprotective filters, antidandruff active substances, keratolytics and other pharmaceutical active substances, antioxidants, plant extracts, oils, waxes, and mixtures thereof, for improving the application of the active substances to the skin.

It has been found according to the invention that a specific combination of surfactants leads to the reduction in the skin irritant action of cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical formulations and to the improvement of the application of active substances to the skin.

The object is additionally achieved according to the invention by a mixture of

20 to 80% by weight of a mixture of surfactants which form multilamellar liquid-crystalline structures, where the surfactants are chosen from at least two of the following groups formed from isethionates, taurates, sarcosinates, acyl lactylates, acyl glutamates, fatty acid-protein condensates, PEG stearates, PEG distearates with an HLB value of less than 10, alkyl polyglycosides and betaines and 10 to 80% by weight of water, polyol or mixtures thereof.

In addition, the object is achieved according to the invention by a cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical rinse-off formulation comprising 0.2 to 20% by weight of a mixture as defined above, 0.1 to 50% by weight of active substances which are chosen from organic photoprotective filters, antidandruff active substances, keratolytics, such as salicylic acid and further pharmaceutical active substances, antioxidants, plant extracts, oils, waxes and mixtures thereof.

The object is also achieved by using a mixture or formulation as described above for producing hair-and/or skin-cleansing compositions.

The object is also achieved by such hair-and/or skin-cleansing compositions which comprise a mixture or formulation as defined above.

According to the invention, mixtures of surfactants are used which form multilamellar liquid-crystalline structures. Such structures can be determined by means of optical microscopy using a polarization microscope. In addition, multilamellar liquid-crystalline structures can be determined by TEM or TEM-freeze fracture technology. Appropriate techniques are known to the person skilled in the art.

The mixtures of the surfactants are chosen so that a multilamellar liquid-crystalline structure is formed. The selection of suitable amounts of the surfactants is possible through simple manual experiments.

The multilamellar liquid-crystalline structure when using the surfactants in a solvent is lyotropic multilamellar liquid-crystalline phases. The mixtures of surfactants comprise at least two of the following groups formed from isethionates, taurates, sarcosinates, acyl lactolates, acyl glutamates, fatty acid-protein condensates, PEG stearates, PEG distearates with an HLB value of less than 10, alkyl polyglycosides and betaines. Thus, for example, one representative of each of the isethionates and taurates can be combined with one another. In the surfactant mixtures, at least one representative from each of two different groups specified above must be present. In this connection, according to one embodiment of the. invention, surfactants from at least three of the abovementioned groups are present in the mixtures. Surfactants from the groups of isethionates, acyl lactylates, alkyl glucosides and acyl glutamates are particularly preferably present in the surfactant mixtures.

If, according to one embodiment of the invention, surfactants from at least two of the specified groups are present, the mixture particularly preferably comprise surfactants from at least two of the following groups formed from isethionates, acyl lacylates and acyl glutamates or from the groups of isethionates, acyl lactylates and alkyl glucosides.

One or more different compounds from the respective groups may be present in the surfactant mixtures used according to the invention.

Preferably, surfactants from the at least two or at least three groups are present in the surfactant mixture in amounts of in each case at least 2% by weight. This means that each of the different above-mentioned groups is present in the surfactant mixtures in an amount of at least 10% by weight, based on the mixture of all of the surfactants used in the mixture. This can also be based on all of the surfactants present in a mixture, formulation or a hair- and/or skin-cleansing composition.

From the specified groups of surfactants, the taurates, sarcosinates, acyl lactylates and acyl glutamates in particular have a particular affinity to skin and therefore attach particularly well to the skin.

Isethionates preferred according to the invention are, for example ammonium, potassium or sodium cocoyl or lauryl isethionates. A particularly preferred representative is sodium cocoylisethionate. Preferred taurates are ammonium, potassium or sodium methyl cocoate taurate. Preferred sarcosinates are ammonium, potassium or sodium cocoyl or lauryl sarcosinate. Preferred acyl lactylates and acyl glutamates have a C8-18 acyl radical. Particularly preferred representatives here are lauroyl lactylate and lauroyl glutamate. (Pationic 138A, Protelan AGL 95). Preferred fatty acid-protein condensates are sodium cocoyl hydrolyzed wheat protein.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, sodium lauroyl lactylate, sodium cocoyl isethionate and sodium lauroyl glutamate (Pationic 138A, Protelan AGL 95, Tauranol 1-78) are used as surfactant mixture.

According to a further embodiment, sodium lauroyl glutamate is replaced by lauryl glucoside.

According to one embodiment; in each case only at most one surfactant from each of the abovementioned groups is used in the surfactant mixtures. Here, preferably from each group at least 1% by weight, particularly preferably at least 15% by weight, in particular at least 20% by weight, are present in the surfactant mixtures, based on the mixture of the surfactants.

The surfactants of the surfactant mixtures are preferably chosen so that, in water or polyol, multilamellar vesicles are obtainable which have an average diameter of less than 15 μm, particularly preferably less than 10 μm, in particular less than 5 μm. If the surfactant mixtures are mixed in detergent solutions such as, for example, sodium lauryl ether sulfate and/or betaine, then the vesicles decrease to an average diameter of less than 500 nm, particularly preferably less than 200 nm, in particular less than 100 nm. It is thus possible to obtain clear products (in contrast to, for example, pearlescent products). The surfactant mixtures according to the invention are preferably used in aqueous detergent systems.

The mixtures of surfactants used according to the invention are preferably used in a mixture of 20 to 90% by weight, preferably 40 to 80% by weight, in particular 50 to 70% by weight, of a mixture of the surfactants, as is described above, and

10 to 80% by weight, preferably 20 to 60% by weight, in particular 30 to 50% by weight, of water, polyol or mixtures thereof. This mixture preferably consists of the specified mixtures of surfactants, water and/or polyol.

According to the invention, the surfactants used are those which are able to form lyotropic lamellar liquid-crystalline phases. The formation of liquid-crystalline structures is essentially dependent on the geometry of the surfactants.

Here, the ratio of hydrophilic radical to hydrophobic radical plays an important role. Surfactants with a space-filling hydrophilic group and a small hydrophobic radical often form micelles. However, micelles are present in a dynamic equilibrium and continually breakdown and build up again. For this reason, micelles are not very suitable as storage media for other ingredients. As the hydrophilic radical becomes smaller, the surfactants form rod-like micelles, veside double layers and sandwich double layers. According to the invention, then, surfactants are used which may be present in a lyotropic lamellar liquid-crystalline phase. In the lyotropic state, active substances are stored, for example, between the hydrophobic radicals and heads of the surfactants. The hydrophilic moiety of the surfactant can be varied according to the desired adhesion to a later substrate. For example, the hydrophobic moiety can be varied for adhesion to the human skin or to textile fibers.

Further surfactants can also be co-used.

Suitable further surfactants which form lyotropic lamellar liquid-crystalline phases are known to the person skilled in the art. Natural or synthetic products can be used. The use of surfactant mixtures is also possible. Examples of suitable surfactants are the physiological bile salts, such as sodium cholate, sodium dehydrocholate, sodium deoxucholate, sodium glycocholate, sodium taruocholate. Animal and vegetable phospholipids such as lecithins with their hydrated forms, and polypeptides such as gelatin with their modified forms can likewise be used.

Suitable synthetic interface-active substances are the salts of sulfosuccinic esters, polyoxyethylene sorbitan esters, sorbitan esters, polyoxyethylene fatty alcohol ethers, polyoxyethylene fatty acid esters, and corresponding mixed condensates of polyoxyethylene ethers with polyoxypropylene ethers, ethoxylated saturated glycerides, partial fatty acid glycerides and polyglycerides.

Examples of suitable surfactants are also glycerol esters, polyglycerol esters, sorbitan esters, sorbitol esters, fatty alcohols, propylene glycol esters, alkyl glucoside esters, sugar esters, lecithin, silicone copolymers, wool wax and mixtures thereof or derivatives thereof. Glycerol esters, polyglycerol esters, alkoxylates and fatty alcohols, and also isoalcohols can, for example, be derived from ricinus fatty acid, 12-hydroxy stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, stearic acid, myristic acid, lauric acid and capric acid. Besides the specified esters, it is also possible for succinates, amides or ethanolamides of the fatty acids to be present. Suitable fatty acid alkoxylates are, in particular, the ethoxylates, propoxylates or mixed ethoxylates/propoxylates.

The compositions used for application to the human skin are, in particular, lactylates, glutamates, ethoxylates of alcohols or glycols, betaines, amphiphilic coemulsifiers, such as sorbitan monostearate and fatty alcohols, fatty acid condensates, sarcosinates, protein fatty acid condensates, sulfosuccinates and ether carboxylates.

The lyotropic lamellar liquid-crystalline phase is preferably formed here using water, alcohols, polyols or mixtures thereof. In this connection, the hydrophilic parts of the surfactants orientate themselves to the water, alcohol, polyol phase or mixed phase thereof, while the hydrophobic parts in the lamellar structure point to one another.

The mixture of surfactant mixture and water/polyol which is present in lyotropic multilamellar liquid-crystalline structure can be introduced into any cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical rinse-off formulations. It serves here in particular to reduce the skin irritant action of the cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical formulations, or moreover, if active substances are present in the formulations, to improve the application of the active substances to the skin during use.

One such cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical liquid-crystalline rinse-off formulation according to the invention comprises 0.2 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular 1 to 5% by weight, of the above-described base mixture of surfactant mixture and water/polyol, and 0.1 to 50% by weight, preferably 1 to 20% by weight, in particular 1.5 to 15% by weight, of active substances which are chosen from organic photoprotective filters, antidandruff active substances, keratolytics and further pharmaceutical active substances, antioxidants, plant extracts, oils, waxes and mixtures thereof. The cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical rinse-off formulation usually comprises further ingredients typical of these formulations. The combination of surfactant mixture, water/polyol and active substances can, however, also like the mixture of surfactant mixture and water/polyol itself, also be used for producing hair- and/or skin-cleansing compositions. Such hair- and/or skin-cleansing compositions may be present in any desired suitable form, for example as shampoos, shower gels, face cleansers or soaps.

The invention also relates to corresponding hair-and/or skin-cleansing compositions. These compositions permit an attachment of the active substances to the skin. Additionally, they enable dissolution of the active substances in the compositions and the reduction of skin irritations during use. In addition, a foaming of otherwise non-foaming detergents can often be achieved through use of the compositions according to the invention.

Suitable active substances are, for example, oils or waxes. Suitable oils are, for example, silicone oils and silicone amines, which are amino functional silicone oils. In addition, ester oils, silicone waxes, natural waxes and polyols can be used.

Also of suitability are cosmetic active substances which are particularly oxidation-or hydrolysis-sensitive, such as, for example, polyphenols. Mention may be made here of catechins (such as epicatechin, epicatechin-3-gallate, epigallocatechin, epigallo-catechin-3-gallate), flavonoids (such as luteolin, apigenin, rutin, quercitin, fisetin, kaempherol, rhametin), isoflavones (such as genistein, daidzein, glycitein, prunetin), coumarins (such as daphnetin, umbelliferone), emodin, resveratrol, oregonin.

Vitamins such as retinol, tocopherol, ascorbic add, riboflavin, pyridoxine are suitable. Also of suitability are whole extracts from plants which comprise, inter alia, the above molecules or classes of molecules.

According to one embodiment of the invention, the active substances are photoprotective filters. These may be present as organic photoprotective filters at room temperature (25 degrees C.) in liquid or solid form. Suitable photoprotective filters (UV filters) are, for example, compounds based on benzophenone, diphenyl cyanacrylate or p-aminobenzoic acid. Specific examples are (INCI or CTFA names) benzophenone-3, benzophenone-4, benzophenone-2, benzophenone-6, benzophenone-9, benzophenone-1, benzophenone-11, etocrylene, octocrylene, PEG-25 PABA, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl salicylate, homosalate and methylenebisbenzotriazolyltetramethylbutylphenol (2,2′-methylenebis{6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol}, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and 2,4,6-trianilino-p-(carbo-2′-ethylhexyl-1′-oxy)-1,3,5-triazine.

Further organic photoprotective filters are ethylhexyltriazone, avobenzone, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, ethylhexyl salicylate, benzotriazoles and triazines.

According to a further embodiment of the invention, the active substances used are antidandruff active substances, as are usually present in cosmetic or pharmaceutical formulations. One example of this is piroctone olamine (Octopyrox®) (1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6-(2,4,4-dimethylpentyl)-2(1H)-pyridone); preferably in combination with 2-aminoethanol (1:1)). Further suitable agents for treating skin flakes are known to the person skilled in the art, e.g. zinc pyrithion and salicylic acid.

Active substances which may be used are also, for example, acyl ascorbates, panthenol, panthenyl ether, ceramides/sphingolipids or polyphenols.

Plant extracts and fragrances and aromas can also be used.

According to the invention, fragrances and aromas are understood as meaning fragrant oils (fragrance) and also aroma substances (flavor). These are odorants, specifically fragrances. Basic substances of the fragrances are generally essential oils, flower oils, extracts from plant and animal drugs, odorants isolated from natural products, chemically modified (semisynthetic) odorants, and odorants obtained by purely synthetic means. According to the invention, the fragrances also include flavorings.

The fragrances and aromas can here originate from a large number of plant starting materials. Examples which may be specified are: flowers, for example from lavender, rose, jasmine, neroli; stems and leaves, for example from geranium, patchouli, petit grain, fruits such as anis, coriander, caraway, juniper; fruit peels, for example from agrumes, such as bergamot, lemon, orange; seeds, such as mace, angelica, celery, cardamom; roots, such as angelica,. costus, iris, calmus; wood, such as sandalwood, guaiac wood, cedar wood, rosewood; herbs and grasses, such as tarragon, lemongrass, sage, thyme; needles and branches, for example from spruce, fir, pine, dwarf-pine; resins and balsams, for example from galvanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, opoponax.

Animal raw materials are, for example, ambergris, musk, civet, castoreum.

Examples of semisynthetic odorants are isoeugenol, vanillin, hydroxycitronellal, citronellol, geranyl acetate, ionones and methylionones. The completely synthetic odorants or fragrances are very diverse and often orientate themselves to natural substances. For a description of the fragrances, reference may be made, for example, to Römpp, Chemielexikon, 9th edition, keywords “parfums [perfumes]”, “riechstoffe [odorants]”, “duftstoffe [fragrances]”. Further suitable fragrances and aromas are known to the person skilled in the art.

The active substances can, for example, be introduced into the spaces between the hydrophobic radicals of the surfactants, and be stored there. As a result, the active substances are dissolved, and crystallizing out of the active substances is prevented. This permits, inter alia, the preparation of cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical formulations with a skin-friendly pH, and by preventing the active substances from crystallizing out, the skin friendliness of the composition is increased further. The surfactant mixtures used according to the invention having the active substances dissolved therein spread upon application to the skin, meaning that application of the active substances to the skin is improved.

Over and above the storage effect, the procedure according to the invention permits extensive protection of the active substances against oxidative decomposition. If appropriate, further antioxidants can also be added.

Even without the addition of antioxidants, the active substance in the compositions according to the invention is significantly better protected against oxidation than in conventional application forms.

Based on the ultimately obtained application formulation, for example a shampoo, shower gel, shower oil, shower bath, bath additive or a face cleanser, photoprotective filters, antidandruff active substances, antioxidants or plant extracts are present preferably in an amount of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, particularly preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight, in particular 0.2 to 3% by weight.

Besides the surfactant mixtures according to the invention, the compositions according to the invention can comprise additional emulsifiers or surfactants, the skin irritant action of which is reduced by the surfactant mixtures according to the invention.

Examples of suitable substances are surfactants, in particular acyl lactylates, such as stearyl lactylate, isethionates, alkyl sulfates, such as cetyl sulfate, diamide ether sulfates, alkyl polyglycosides, phosphoric esters, taurates, sulfosuccinates, alkyl sarcosinates, such as sodium lauryl sarcosinate and alkyl glutamates, such as sodium lauryl glutamate, ethoxylated sorbitan fatty acid esters, block polymers and block copolymers (such as, for example, poloxamers and poloxamines), polyglycerol ethers and esters, lecithins of various origin (e.g. egg or soya lecithin), chemically modified lecithins (for example hydrogenated lecithin), and also phospholipids and sphingolipids, mixtures of lecithins with phospholipids, sterols (for example cholesterol and cholesterol derivatives, and stigma sterol), esters and ethers of sugars or sugar alcohols with fatty acids or fatty alcohols (for example sucrose monostearate), ethoxylated sorbitan fatty acid esters, ethoxylated mono- and diglycerides, ethoxylated lipids and lipoids, ethoxylated fatty alcohols or fatty acids and charge stabilizers or charge carriers, such as, for example, dicetyl phosphate, phosphatidylglycerol, and saturated and unsaturated fatty acids, sodium cholate, sodium glycol cholate, sodium taurocholate or mixtures thereof, amino acids or peptidizers, such as sodium citrate (see J. S. Lucks, B. W. Muller, R. H. Muller, Int. J. Pharmaceutics 63, pages 183 to 18 (1990)), viscosity-increasing substances, such as cellulose ethers and esters (for example methylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, sodium carboxymethylcellulose), polyvinyl derivatives, such as polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinylpyrrolidone, polyvinyl acetate, alginates, polyacrylates (for example carbopol), xanthans and pectins.

As aqueous phase it is possible to use water, aqueous solutions or mixtures of water with water-miscible liquids, such as glycerol or polyethylene glycol. Further additional components for the aqueous phase are, for example, mannose, glucose, fructose, xylose, trehalose, mannitol, sorbitol, xylitol or other polyols, such as polyethylene glycol, and electrolytes, such as sodium chloride. These additional components can be used in an amount of from 1 to 30% by weight, based on the aqueous phase.

If desired, it is also possible to use viscosity-increasing substances or charge carriers, as are described in EP-B-0 605 497. Thickeners which can be used are, for example, polysaccharides, polyalkyl acrylates, polyalkyl cyanoacrylates, polyalkyl-vinylpyrrolidones, acrylic polymers, polylactic acids or polylactides.

In the compositions, the water resistance and the ability to spread and adhere can be increased by adding silicone. Suitable silicone derivatives here are dimethicone, alkyl- and aryl-substituted silicones, amino substituted silicone oils, silicone copolyols with alkyl polyglycosides, modified silicone oils etc. Alternatively or additionally it is also possible to use fluorinated hydrocarbons.

The compositions according to the invention, in particular mixtures of the surfactant mixtures and water/polyol and the formulations which comprise additional active substances are prepared according to the invention by mixing the surfactant mixture with the water or polyol, which is present in liquid form, to form a lyotropic lamellar liquid-crystalline phase and, if appropriate, then mixing in the active substances.

The compositions according to the invention can be present in the form of emulsions or multiple emulsions.

The emulsions are O/W emulsions, W/O emulsions, P/O emulsions or multiple emulsions. The individual phases of the emulsions can also have customary ingredients known for the individual phases. For example, reference may be made to DE-A 43 41 113, EP-B 0 605 497, EP-B-0 167 825 and U.S. Pat. No. 5,885,486.

Typical further ingredients of the hair- and/or skin cleansing compositions according to the invention are, for example, betaines, APGs, inorganic and organic thickeners, polymers, fragrances and dyes. In addition, further customary surfactants, such as anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants and nonionic surfactants can be used provided they do not adversely effect the effectiveness of the surfactant mixtures used according to the invention.

DESCRIPTION OF PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS

The invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples below.

EXAMPLES Example 1 Base Formulation

30 parts by weight of sodium lauroyl lactylate, 15 parts by weight of sodium cocoyl isethionate, 30 parts by weight of sodium lauroyl glutamate and 25 parts by weight of water were heated together to 60 degrees C. and stirred until a homogeneous mixture was formed. The mixture had a pH of 6.6. It was used as phase A in the other examples.

Example 2

5% of the phase A were added to 12% strength aqueous ether sulfate solution. This mixture of 5% of the phase A and 12% of ether sulfate in water was applied to the skin of 20 test-subjects in a human patch test. For comparison, a 12% strength aqueous ether sulfate solution was applied to other skin areas. In contrast to the comparison solution, the solution which comprised phase A had a pleasantly silky feel on the skin, and skin irritations were reduced to zero. In comparison to this, when the 12% strength aqueous ether sulfate solution was used on its own, skin irritations were experienced by the subjects.

This clearly shows that the phase A according to the invention reduces the irritation potential of customary rinse-off products. Typically, the phase A according to the invention can be added to a shampoo or skin-cleansing product in amounts of, for example, 1 to 10% by weight.

Example 3 Antidandruff Shampoo

3.5 parts by-weight of sodium lauryl ether sulfate, 3.0 parts by weight of the phase A from example 1, 0.2 part by weight of octopyrox, 3.0 parts by weight of NaCl and 87.3 parts by weight of demineralized water were homogenized for 1 minute in the Turrax at 8000 rpm at room temperature after phase A and octopyrox have been mixed beforehand at 60 degrees C. A pH of 7.2 resulted, which was then adjusted to 6.6. Using the formulation according to the invention it was possible to establish a slightly acidic pH without octopyrox crystallizing out.

A comparison composition was prepared from 3.5 parts by weight of sodium lauryl ether sulfate, 0.5 parts by weight of octopyrox, 3 parts by weight of NaCl and 93 parts by weight of demineralized water. The pH was 9.0 and could not be adjusted to neutral since otherwise octopyrox would crystallize out. The basic pH means that the composition is not skin-friendly.

The antidandruff shampoo according to the invention and the comparison shampoo were used to reduce the flake density in 30 test-subjects in a test, the test-subjects being examined at the start of the treatment, after 14 days and after 28 days. Firstly, as an objective test the amount of flakes was determined, and secondly, as a subjective test, the test-subjects were asked about itching, skin reddening and other effects.

It was found that the product according to the invention was clearly superior to the comparison shampoo in the application test both with regard to the amount of flakes remaining and also with regard to reduced skin irritation.

Example 4 Base Formulation

22 parts by weight of sodium lauroyl lactylate, 8 parts by weight of sodium cocoyl isethionate and 15 parts by weight of lauryl glucoside were heated to 60 degrees C. together with 55 parts by weight of water and homogenized with stirring. 

1. A cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical rinse-off formulation comprising: 2% by weight to 20% by weight of a phase A; 0.1% by weight to 50% by weight of an active substance; a detergent; the remainder being water; said phase A being a mixture of 20% by weight to 90% by weight of a surfactant mixture of isethionates, acyl lactylates and one of alkyl glutamates and alkyl glucosides and 10% by weight to 80% by weight of water, alcohol, polyol or mixtures thereof; said phase A forming multilamellar vesicles; and wherein the cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical rinse-off formulation is a clear product comprising said multilamellar vesicles of said phase A, said multilamellar vesicles having an average diameter of less than 100 nm.
 2. The cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical rinse-off formulation of claim 1, wherein said phase A contains at least 10% by weight of isethionates, at least 10% by weight acyl lactylates, and at least 10% by weight of one of alkyl glutamates and alkyl glucosides.
 3. The cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical rinse-off formulation of claim 2, wherein said active substance is selected from the group consisting of organic photoprotective filters, antidandruff active substances, keratolytics, antioxidants, salicylic acid, plant extracts, oils, waxes, and mixtures thereof.
 4. The cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical rinse-off formulation of claim 2, further comprising a preservative agent.
 5. The cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical rinse-off formulation of claim 2, wherein said isethionate is selected from the group consisting of ammonium cocoylisethionate, potassium cocoylisethionate, sodium cocoylisethionate, ammonium lauryl isethionates, potassium lauryl isethionates, and sodium lauryl isethionates.
 6. The cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical rinse-off formulation of claim 2, wherein said phase A comprises sodium lauroyl lactylate, sodium cocoyl isethionate and sodium lauroyl glutamate.
 7. The cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical rinse-off formulation of claim 2, wherein said polyol is selected from the group consisting of mannose, glucose, fructose, xylose, trehalose, mannitol, sorbitol, xylitol, and polyethylene glycol.
 8. The cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical rinse-off formulation of claim 7, wherein said polyol is contained in an amount of from 1% by weight to 30% by weight, based on the aqueous phase of the cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical rinse-off formulation.
 9. The cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical rinse-off formulation of claim 2, wherein said phase A is composed of 30 parts by weight of sodium lauroyl lactylate, 15 parts by weight of sodium cocoyl isethionate, 30 parts by weight of sodium lauroyl glutamate and 25 parts by weight of water.
 10. The cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical rinse-off formulation of claim 1, wherein said active substance is selected from the group consisting of silicone oils, silicone amines, ester oils, silicone waxes, natural waxes, epicatechin, epicatechin-3-gallate, epigallocatechin, epigallo-catechin-3-gallate, luteolin, apigenin, rutin, quercitin, fisetin, kaempherol, rhametin, genistein, daidzein, glycitein, prunetin, daphnetin, umbelliferone, emodin, resveratrol, oregonin, retinol, tocopherol, ascorbic acid, riboflavin, pyridoxine, benzophenone-3, benzophenone-4, benzophenone-2, benzophenone-6, benzophenone-9, benzophenone-1, benzophenone-11, etocrylene, octocrylene, PEG-25 PABA, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl salicylate, homosalate, methylene bisbenzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol (2,2′-methylene bis{6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol}, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid, 2,4,6-trianilino-p-(carbo-2′-ethylhexyl-1′-oxy)-1,3,5-triazine, ethylhexyltriazone, avobenzone, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, ethylhexyl salicylate, benzotriazoles, triazines, 1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6-(2,4,4-dimethylpentyl)-2(1H)-pyridone, 2-aminoethanol, zinc pyrithion, and salicylic acid.
 11. The cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical rinse-off formulation of claim 1, wherein said active substance is selected from fragrances and aromas originating from plant starting material of the group consisting of lavender, rose, jasmine, neroli, geranium, patchouli, petit grain, anis, coriander, caraway, juniper, bergamot, lemon, orange, mace, angelica, celery, cardamom, angelica, costus, iris, calmus, sandalwood, guaiac wood, cedar wood, rosewood, tarragon, lemongrass, sage, thyme, spruce, fir, pine, dwarf-pine, galvanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, and opoponax.
 12. The cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical rinse-off formulation of claim 1, wherein said active substance is selected from fragrances and aromas originating from animal raw material of the group consisting of ambergris, musk, civet, and castoreum.
 13. The cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical rinse-off formulation of claim 1, wherein said active substance is selected from the group isoeugenol, vanillin, hydroxycitronellal, citronellol, geranyl acetate, ionones and methylionones.
 14. The cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical rinse-off formulation of claim 1, wherein said active substance is present in an amount from 0.05% by weight to 10% by weight.
 15. The cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical rinse-off formulation of claim 1, wherein said polyol is selected from the group consisting of mannose, glucose, fructose, xylose, trehalose, mannitol, sorbitol, xylitol, and polyethylene glycol.
 16. The cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical rinse-off formulation of claim 15, wherein said polyol is contained in an amount of from 1% by weight to 30% by weight, based on the aqueous phase of the cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical rinse-off formulation.
 17. The cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical rinse-off formulation of claim 1, wherein said phase A is composed of 30 parts by weight of sodium lauroyl lactylate, 15 parts by weight of sodium cocoyl isethionate, 30 parts by weight of sodium lauroyl glutamate and 25 parts by weight of water.
 18. The cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical rinse-off formulation of claim 1, wherein said detergent is sodium lauryl ether sulfate; or betaine; or a mixture of sodium lauryl ether sulfate and betaine.
 19. The cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical rinse-off formulation of claim 1, further comprising a preservative agent.
 20. The cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical rinse-off formulation of claim 1, wherein said average diameter of said multilamellar vesicles is determined by transmission electron microscopy (TEM), TEM-freeze fracture technology, and/or optical microscopy using a polarization microscope.
 21. The cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical rinse-off formulation of claim 1, wherein said isethionate is selected from the group consisting of ammonium cocoylisethionate, potassium cocoylisethionate, sodium cocoylisethionate, ammonium lauryl isethionates, potassium lauryl isethionates, and sodium lauryl isethionates.
 22. The cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical rinse-off formulation of claim 1, wherein said phase A comprises sodium lauroyl lactylate, sodium cocoyl isethionate and sodium lauroyl glutamate.
 23. The cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical rinse-off formulation of claim 1, wherein said active substance is selected from the group consisting of organic photoprotective filters, antidandruff active substances, keratolytics, antioxidants, salicylic acid, plant extracts, oils, waxes, and mixtures thereof.
 24. The cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical rinse-off formulation of claim 23, wherein said active substance is selected from the group consisting of silicone oils, silicone amines, ester oils, silicone waxes, natural waxes, epicatechin, epicatechin-3-gallate, epigallocatechin, epigallo-catechin-3-gallate, luteolin, apigenin, rutin, quercitin, fisetin, kaempherol, rhametin, genistein, daidzein, glycitein, prunetin, daphnetin, umbelliferone, emodin, resveratrol, oregonin, retinol, tocopherol, ascorbic acid, riboflavin, pyridoxine, benzophenone-3, benzophenone-4, benzophenone-2, benzophenone-6, benzophenone-9, benzophenone-1, benzophenone-11, etocrylene, octocrylene, PEG-25 PABA, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl salicylate, homosalate, methylene bisbenzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol (2,2′-methylene bis{6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol}, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid, 2,4,6-trianilino-p-(carbo-2′-ethylhexyl-1′-oxy)-1,3,5-triazine, ethylhexyltriazone, avobenzone, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, ethylhexyl salicylate, benzotriazoles, triazines, 1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6-(2,4,4-dimethylpentyl)-2(1H)-pyridone, 2-aminoethanol, zinc pyrithion, and salicylic acid.
 25. The cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical rinse-off formulation of claim 23, wherein said active substance is selected from fragrances and aromas originating from plant starting material of the group consisting of lavender, rose, jasmine, neroli, geranium, patchouli, petit grain, anis, coriander, caraway, juniper, bergamot, lemon, orange, mace, angelica, celery, cardamom, angelica, costus, ins, calmus, sandalwood, guaiac wood, cedar wood, rosewood, tarragon, lemongrass, sage, thyme, spruce, fir, pine, dwarf-pine, galvanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, and opoponax.
 26. The cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical rinse-off formulation of claim 23, wherein said active substance is selected from fragrances and aromas originating from animal raw material of the group consisting of ambergris, musk, civet, and castoreum.
 27. The cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical rinse-off formulation of claim 23, wherein said active substance is selected from the group isoeugenol, vanillin, hydroxycitronellal, citronellol, geranyl acetate, ionones and methylionones.
 28. The cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical rinse-off formulation of claim 23, wherein said active substance is present in an amount from 0.05% by weight to 10% by weight. 